Travel

coming to you live from the candlelight

After a calm and peaceful ferry ride followed by a long, stuffy and cramped bus ride on the local colectivo, I arrived in Tulum feeling excited! I’d been hearing mixed reviews about Tulum over the past two weeks but the majority were really positive.

As soon as I got off the bus and started walking (I want to call it working out since I was carrying 50 lbs on my back, but who’s counting) to my Airbnb I began getting a good feeling about the place. It felt small, hippie (kinda true to heart), and easy for some reason.

Checking into my Airbnb was by far the most pleasant check in I’ve had yet and I commend this host for finally living up to the reviews online. The room was a bit different than expected; It was right across from the shared (by 5 rooms) kitchen, with no windows except for the one facing the kitchen which remains covered with a curtain drawn in front of it.

Ok, fine, you don’t really need to do much in your room besides sleep right? Says the girl whose been living in semi hibernation in her cozy, bright, Cozumel room for the past week. Well I guess it’s time to shake things up.

I had two immediate goals for Tulum:

  1. Find the beach
  2. Find some vegetables; I’m not sure I can eat anymore BBQ, meat tacos, or even a tortilla at this point.

So when my host was finished giving me a very detailed rundown on the map of the town and asked if I had any questions, I inadvertently blurted out ‘Food!’, ‘Where’s the good food?!’ I quickly unpacked as I always do the minute I get into a new room (so it straight away looked like I’d been there for 5 years), and I could feel I was choking back a small breakdown and anxiety.

I was a bit shocked to be honest, I thought I had moved on from this back in Cozumel, I really started feeling ok and comfortable there and thought I was on the up and up. I started wondering if it’s the moving to a new place that I was struggling with..adjusting to a new living area, needing to get familiar with the town, where to go, how to get there, realizing again I was here alone.

Or maybe the expectations about the accommodation not being met…I don’t remember feeling this way in India so I honestly don’t know what my problem is…but I didn’t let it derail the food I desperately needed as only a carrot and banana had been tiding me over for the last 7 hours (maybe I was just hungry!)

But whatever it is, I have a feeling this isn’t the last of it, and I have all the time in the world to deal with it, so I will. After all, isn’t the true meaning of mindfulness being in the present with the good and bad? We can’t expect to always BE feeling happy and I get that. I will commit to being present to work through this and not completely distract or numb myself.

I put on a cute dress and went to find my food. I decided the fresh fish had won out and I headed for the furthest recommendation on the map to the fish place, figuring it would let me get a good look at town at the same time.

I bought a freshly cut cup of mango from a street vendor on the way and walked Tulum Avenue with my head high forking in the mango while reminiscing of my mango love affair from India. Everything was going to be fine.

I was headed to a local spot called El Camello owned by a fisherman, and was prepared to wait for a table as I was advised I would need to do, plus it was a Sunday afternoon so it would be even busier than usual. Conveniently there was a sign attached to a hostess type podium that faced me as I walked up which read ‘Place down your name for a table’ or something to that effect.

A lady got there right before me and I glanced at the 5-6 names in front of me on the list and saw the lady had just entered 12 as the person count! I didn’t think I was going to get in. But I made eye contact with one of the servers who was standing out of the street near me, seeming to be overlooking the goings on inside (this was an open air restaurant) so I approached him and asked the wait time for uno. ‘Uno?!’ He clarified. Uno, I confirmed. And within minutes I had a table for 4; I was grateful. Maybe it was the cute dress?

When the server came over he started to open the menu in front of me and I began how I typically do with ‘What’s the best, what’s your favourite’. Recommendations are everything to me! Though I can normally tell if I’m getting a heartfelt answer or not and I’ll adjust accordingly and review the menu options further if needed. Anyway, we quickly settled on grilled fish with vegetables. I really confused him by asking for what I thought was cucumber in one of the pictures on the menu, so I was happy with whatever vegetables I got and he added in rice and refried beans. Bueno! I was pumped.

Within seconds a huge plate of fried tortilla chips and various dips was laid out in front of me. By far the best pico de gallo I’ve had yet! Within minutes of that my fresh fish was in front of me. I’m blown away at how quickly these places get the food out in front of you, it’s impressive. Understanding that a quick grilled fish didn’t take long and the rice and beans were ready and waiting. The fish was hot and fresh and melt in my mouth soft. It was exactly what I had been wanting. No cucumber but one piece each of broccoli, cauliflower and carrot, no joke, one piece each. It would do for today! I was a happy camper. The place was bustling with locals and I melted away into the Spanish chatter, my fish and the soccer highlights on a tv in front of me.

I was contemplating how to spend the rest of the afternoon/evening knowing that the beach was too far for the timing without the bike I still needed to rent, so I started slowly wandering back thinking maybe I’d hit the mercado for some produce to keep at home.

The sky was getting really dark so I checked the weather and in about an hour it was supposed to storm. But my gut made me turn back from the mercado and head straight for home and I called my sister instead who was expecting my call. Within minutes massive winds had come up blowing dirt, dust, garbage and tree branches everywhere and I stood stopped on a corner squealing into the phone with my hands covering to protect my eyes.

I tried to keep moving and saw that all the locals were running and frantically tearing down shop fronts and I thought shit, I should be running too! I hung up the phone call and ran the last two blocks to my place literally seconds before the rain started. I was covered in dust and dirt and went straight for the shower.

Before I could even get the hot water coming, boom. The power was out. I continued with my cold dark shower anyway and found a candle and my flashlight. The storm stopped about an hour later and the temperature dropped about 10 degrees. It’s now three hours later and the power is still out, so I sit here with a single candle and my words. Hopefully by the time you read this all is well and light is back in the world!

Looking forward to day 2, beach bound.

Goodnight,  From Tulum

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